[RVA]

So I've been tracking my KWH input and miles traveled, and am finding a huge discrepancy between what the app it telling me and reality. According to the app, I'm getting over 2.4 miles per kwh. In reality, I'm getting a bit over 2.0. The total miles traveled is also way off - according to the app, I've driven nearly 7,000 miles, but I'm only at 5,400. Not even close.

This may explain why the range stated in the car and on the app is no where close to reality. I routinely show 230+ miles of range after fully charging, but never get close to that. After driving 100 miles, the 230 range suddenly is 95.

Anyone else seeing the same things?

 

[Bill33525]

At the bottom of the Audi app is “Driving Data” > “to statistics” gives a summary of your trips. What are the top Wh/mile and avg speed Entries?

 

[RVA]

The stats are all over the place - mi/kwh ranges from 1.8 to 3.0. I've entered all of the trips in the statistics list (mi/kwh and miles driven) into a spreadsheet. That's where the huge discrepancy comes from. According to the app statistics, i've driven 7,000 miles and am getting 2.4 miles/kwh. According to the car, I'm at 5,400 miles and getting 2.0 miles/kwh.
I believe there is some sort of inherent flaw in how the app captures miles driven and kwh consumption.

 

[Bill33525]

My app is recording the cars mileage correctly, try connecting with Nick @ Audi Customer Experience Center <[email protected]> for help with your issue. If your battery is rather cold your range will be lower than usual and lead foot driving will also reduce battery range, of course. With short term memory cleared and taking off from a stop can see 700 wh/mi, if continued aggressively driving, would result in very bad range. So driving conservatively can improve range.
Mine charges to 212-220 miles indicated with the AC off. Usually get a mile of battery reduction with a mile added to the odometer. Longest trip to date is 190 miles round trip with 6KW added at a mall L2 charger and 34 miles remaining. Audi advises that @ 9 miles battery remaining the car gets frantic and goes into range saving mode.

Good luck with your E Tron. We are enjoying ours.

 

[ex-expats]

Have you reset your long term statistics by any chance. And I have driven a loaner w 19” wheels and gotten significantly better efficiency than with our unit with 21” wheels - bigger so more torque to get going and probably heavier too. Winter will definitely cause pain. I was getting as low as 0.7 mi/kWh when temps here dropped to 0°C ((but we have lots of hills that just kill efficiency be awful when start on an incline easily requires about 60-75% to get going to city speeds)).

 

[cwstnsko]

You say you are measuring kWh input. I assume that this number is being reported by your EVSE or some sort of power measuring device measuring the power out of the wall outlet. The car is almost certainly reporting it's numbers based on the power output, being delivered from the battery to the drive train. Your 2.0 kWh/mile compared to the 2.4 kWh/mile reported by the car almost exactly represents the approximately 20% cumulative losses that I have always heard used to represent the efficiency of transferring electricity from the wall to the battery and from the battery to the motors. To me, that number makes perfect sense. As to why the app would report a greater number of miles traveled, I have no idea. I'd be inclined to make a few test trips to make a trip by trip comparison, in hopes of learning more about whats going on. Do you see any trips in the data that look like duplicates? Perhaps when the system is being flaky, the data is being transmitted to the server more than once?

Chris W

 

[RVA]

Thanks for the input. The kWh I am recording is from the Chargepoint device, so it is an input number.

Still, it is pretty misleading for the car to report an efficiency based on output rather than input. If there's a 20% efficiency loss, then is the 95 kWh battery really a 76 kWh battery (95 input, only 76 output)?

Here's some interval data I've tracked (there are no duplicate trips):
1/13 - 1/16: App says I drove 158 miles, and got 2.35 miles/kWh
Car says I drove 125 miles, and using the Chargepoint data, I got 2.06 miles/kWh

1/9 - 1/13: App says I drove 196 miles, and got 2.60 miles/kWh
Car says I drove 139 miles, and got 2.31 miles/kWh based on Chargepoint data

 

[Victor]

So I've been tracking my KWH input and miles traveled, and am finding a huge discrepancy between what the app it telling me and reality. According to the app, I'm getting over 2.4 miles per kwh. In reality, I'm getting a bit over 2.0. The total miles traveled is also way off - according to the app, I've driven nearly 7,000 miles, but I'm only at 5,400. Not even close.

This may explain why the range stated in the car and on the app is no where close to reality. I routinely show 230+ miles of range after fully charging, but never get close to that. After driving 100 miles, the 230 range suddenly is 95.

Anyone else seeing the same things?

Yes

 

[Lucken]

Lately, in nice weather, my range is pretty close to the GoM.

 

[JNealCox]

Thanks for the input. The kWh I am recording is from the Chargepoint device, so it is an input number.

Still, it is pretty misleading for the car to report an efficiency based on output rather than input. If there's a 20% efficiency loss, then is the 95 kWh battery really a 76 kWh battery (95 input, only 76 output)?

Here's some interval data I've tracked (there are no duplicate trips):
1/13 - 1/16: App says I drove 158 miles, and got 2.35 miles/kWh
Car says I drove 125 miles, and using the Chargepoint data, I got 2.06 miles/kWh

1/9 - 1/13: App says I drove 196 miles, and got 2.60 miles/kWh
Car says I drove 139 miles, and got 2.31 miles/kWh based on Chargepoint data

I think I disagree with the idea that you should rate efficiency on input from the wall. Every electron that goes in to the battery does not get stored as potential kinetic energy. That's why ALL Li batteries get warm when charging. There are thermal losses. Relying on how well your car handles the discharge process is the most clean cut way to guide you in estimating your mileage. If you complicate that by trying to toss in the effeciency of your battery charging process, then you just make it less reliable. Also, does the car have anyway of knowing exactly how many electrons you are trying to pump in? I think it only knows how much battery capacity is being used.

 

[Ulmer]

Along the lines of what was mentioned above, I've read that level 2 (240v AC) charging should be about 90% efficient. Level 1 (120v AC) charging is around 82-84% efficient.

It's possible that the car isn't counting power used while sitting in Park with the car on and AC running, while sitting idle, etc. too. So that plus the charging efficiency losses could account for the ~20% difference.