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3K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  JHinman 
#1 ·
I just placed a deposit on an e-Tron Prestige - Navarra Blue and beige. Apparently it is at a port in Houston.

This will be our first electric vehicle, so we are pretty excited about getting it!

I have an electrician coming over this afternoon to see about setting up for charging.
 
#10 ·
Go for 65A, that will let you use full 50A out of charger at 80% cable rating. Also, if you want longer cable life, go with copper and not aluminum cabling. It costs a bit more per foot / meter but you will have lower loss on the cable and less heating.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Also, if you want longer cable life, go with copper and not aluminum cabling. It costs a bit more per foot / meter but you will have lower loss on the cable and less heating.
Not true.
Aluminum (alloy, really) is 65% less conductive (by diameter) than copper. As such, aluminum cable must be sized larger, to allow the same ampacity. In a 75C application, 65 amps, (60 amp breaker, 48 amp load) copper, would require a 6AWG conductor. 65 amps (60 amp breaker, 48 amp load), aluminum, would require 4 AWG conductor. This would be using conduit, or MC cable. Romex is rated differently.

The losses are similar, and aluminum is less expensive.
BUT
Aluminum must use lugs that are rated for aluminum cable (usually rated CU/AL), and should be terminated after dressing with a wire brush and anti-oxidant paste. Some devices still have copper-only lugs. (Example: Tesla HPWC) Most of the 14-50 receptacles should be rated for both.
Almost all high rise residential and commercial buildings have switched to aluminum, as it is lighter, less expensive, has similar amperage/heating losses, compared to copper, for their feeder circuits (large gauge). All of the branch circuits (10 AWG and smaller) are all copper.

Copper is easier to find, and easier to work with, but I'd let the electrician make the call

Notes:
1. Disclaimer: I worked, in the past, for Triangle Wire, American Insulated Wire (both now Southwire), Alcan Cable, General Cable (Both now Prysmian), and Nexans
2. For the non-Americans reading this thread, please substitute Aluminium, Armoured cable/Teck Cable, and NMD where suitable ;)
 
#15 · (Edited)
For your using the Audi provided EVSE for Level 1 charging, there is a pretty common problem people (including me) have run into. When you set up the charger "brick" for level 1 make sure the box is set to 100%. The box gives you the option for it to deliver at 100% or 50% capacity. On the EVSE that came with my 2019, the Power button is multi-functional. A short press will power it ON/OFF; a long press (3 sec I think) will switch the mode between 50%/100%. Often the charger will power up set for 50%. At Level 1 the supply presented to the car is not high enough at 50% to trigger the car to start charging--most often the car will say it is "waiting for a timer". If you set it to 100% it should be fine.
 
#21 ·
I expect the wire for my outlet to be copper. Pretty sure it will be really expensive, as I have to cross three bays of garage. I will just be happy to get it done.

All of the wire in my house is copper except for for the aluminum line to a 100-amp sub-panel. Maybe I need to take a look at those connections once in a while.
 
#22 ·
All of the wire in my house is copper except for for the aluminum line to a 100-amp sub-panel. Maybe I need to take a look at those connections once in a while.
All circuit sizes in North America (14-10 AWG) for homes are in copper, and have been since the early 80's. The difficulty terminating aluminum, and the lack of 15-20 amp devices that are rated for aluminum cable exceed any cost savings. Plus, issues with aluminum wire in the 70's (long-long story) in residential applications, have had many home insurers put clauses in their policies, penalizing homes with any circuit sized feeds, wired with aluminum.

However, the utility feed into the main breaker is almost always aluminum. The lugs are rated for it, and all professional contractors know how to install it. Same with sub-panels, and occasionally stoves or dryers.
PLEASE do not try to re-torque the main lugs. It will do more harm than good. If the cable was installed correctly, it will perform the same as a copper connection. If you are at all concerned, see if you can borrow a Flir camera, and see if the connection is running hot. All of the connections in the panel, that are carrying current, will be warmer than ambient temperature...but if there is an issue with any connection, it will scream hot on the screen.
 
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