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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
Came across my first big issue. I just had a parking brake malfunction light go off. Now the car has everything shut off. No screens on. And the start button or any button for that matter does not work. The car is essentially dead. What do I do and has anyone experienced this
 

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Hello.

I have a 2021 E-tron Sportback, which I have "had" for five weeks. On day 8, I had the same thing happen, though I did not notice any error, parking brake or otherwise. Previously, car was perfect, as far as I could tell. I had previously unplugged the car, opened it, and retrieved my COVID mask, then closed and relocked the car. A few hours later, I went to use the car, and it would not open. Tried and failed with the second fob. Opened the car with the mechanical key, and no lights, sound, anything. Dead in the water. No life signs at all.

Had a tow on flatbed up to dealer (Audi Wilsonville). Problem was in the circuit which charges the low-voltage (12V) system, in lieu of the alternator. They replaced at least two modules, and I think some fuses, and did a lot of programming/adaptations too. All of this took a long time (16 days), due to this being new submodel and AONA unfamiliarity with this new problem.

Audi completely owned the problem, repaired the car, covered my rentals (I live too far for loaner to have worked in this case.), and thus far, the problem seems to be completely solved. I've had it back for a week now. Fingers crossed.

If you need to tow the car, buy a good 12V high capacity Lithium charger, and you can jumpstart the low voltage battery, so you can release the parking brake, and put it in neutral. I am not sure if it is possible to drive the car at this point, however.

This is the electric car analog to alternator failure. It has been reported in Taycans, and even in early Teslas. Hope it is not a common problem, as they told me it was ~$8000 of warranty work. They wrote zeros for all parts and labor, so who knows.

Good luck with your car!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello.

I have a 2021 E-tron Sportback, which I have "had" for five weeks. On day 8, I had the same thing happen, though I did not notice any error, parking brake or otherwise. Previously, car was perfect, as far as I could tell. I had previously unplugged the car, opened it, and retrieved my COVID mask, then closed and relocked the car. A few hours later, I went to use the car, and it would not open. Tried and failed with the second fob. Opened the car with the mechanical key, and no lights, sound, anything. Dead in the water. No life signs at all.

Had a tow on flatbed up to dealer (Audi Wilsonville). Problem was in the circuit which charges the low-voltage (12V) system, in lieu of the alternator. They replaced at least two modules, and I think some fuses, and did a lot of programming/adaptations too. All of this took a long time (16 days), due to this being new submodel and AONA unfamiliarity with this new problem.

Audi completely owned the problem, repaired the car, covered my rentals (I live too far for loaner to have worked in this case.), and thus far, the problem seems to be completely solved. I've had it back for a week now. Fingers crossed.

If you need to tow the car, buy a good 12V high capacity Lithium charger, and you can jumpstart the low voltage battery, so you can release the parking brake, and put it in neutral. I am not sure if it is possible to drive the car at this point, however.

This is the electric car analog to alternator failure. It has been reported in Taycans, and even in early Teslas. Hope it is not a common problem, as they told me it was ~$8000 of warranty work. They wrote zeros for all parts and labor, so who knows.

Good luck with your car!

Mike
Thanks for the info, i had a tow truck come but the car is in a tight spot in my garage, we were able to jump start the car to be on. Stupidly i thought that fixed the problem so we took off the jump starter and closed the doors and hood. THEN it died again but now im completely locked out and can only resort to getting a flat bed tow truck.
 

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Thanks for the info, i had a tow truck come but the car is in a tight spot in my garage, we were able to jump start the car to be on. Stupidly i thought that fixed the problem so we took off the jump starter and closed the doors and hood. THEN it died again but now im completely locked out and can only resort to getting a flat bed tow truck.
It is easy to open the car with the mechanical key. Jump it again, as I said above, so you can safely pull it to the flatbed. Use the hitch receiver, if you have it. If not, I think the tow eyelet screw is in the compartment under the floor of the frunk. You can get to this without power. If it is in the back (with spare), you need jumpstart to open the tailgate.


This is the jumpstarter that I purchased.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am unable to enter the car it is locked. And the mechanical key won’t open the door manually. So I can’t open the frunk. Is there another way in?
 

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Yes it will. Clearly your manual is trapped in your car. There is an online PDF version. Google can help.

But... here is how you do it.

Get manual key out of fob. Put it in the slot on under surface of small part of door handle. It is a plastic cover.

Lever the key away from the car, until the cover pops off. Fear not... nothing will break.

This exposes the key slot, use of which you will find self-evident.

It seems to work for all of the doors of my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes it will. Clearly your manual is trapped in your car. There is an online PDF version. Google can help.

But... here is how you do it.

Get manual key out of fob. Put it in the slot on under surface of small part of door handle. It is a plastic cover.

Lever the key away from the car, until the cover pops off. Fear not... nothing will break.

This exposes the key slot, use of which you will find self-evident.

It seems to work for all of the doors of my car.
Hey i tried that i turned the fob key counter clockwise and clockwise and the driver door would not open. The other doors (after you remove the cap) have some plastic cover over them so i dont know whats under those plastic covers (where the key hole is in the driver side door)
 

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Had a tow on flatbed up to dealer (Audi Wilsonville). Problem was in the circuit which charges the low-voltage (12V) system, in lieu of the alternator. They replaced at least two modules, and I think some fuses, and did a lot of programming/adaptations too. All of this took a long time (16 days), due to this being new submodel and AONA unfamiliarity with this new problem.

Audi completely owned the problem, repaired the car, covered my rentals (I live too far for loaner to have worked in this case.), and thus far, the problem seems to be completely solved. I've had it back for a week now. Fingers crossed.
Mike
I'm in the Portland area, also. I visited the Audi Wilsonville dealer, but ended up getting my 2019 Etron at Beaverton Audi, where I had gotten my previous cars. I'm glad to hear that the Wilsonville location also seems to try to be on top of the E-Tron game. Beaverton Audi has also been very pro-active. This is all so new for both owners and Service, and you read so many posts about Dealer Service's who appear to have no clue!
 

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Turn it harder, or more than once, or back and forth. There should be no reason that you can't open the lock with the mechanical key. Unless they gave you the wrong key for your vehicle. Try the one in the other fob, maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Turn it harder, or more than once, or back and forth. There should be no reason that you can't open the lock with the mechanical key. Unless they gave you the wrong key for your vehicle. Try the one in the other fob, maybe.
We just tried both. The tow truck guy says it’s an issue with the mechanical key hole. Now is going to try to jack into the car and open the door handle by going through the side of the door
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow. That is terrible!

Please keep us posted.
We got into the car! We had to car jack it with a hanger and the door handle opened. The mechanical key hole did not work at all. We then jumpered the 12v car to turn it on. I then finally saw the "low car battery" light go off. Its off to the service center now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So apparently while my car is in the shop the technician says there was a high voltage battery charger software update. Not sure if this is a new update that corrects the 80-79% issue and constant 5 minute notifications. i guess we will find out after i pick it up.
 

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I wouldn't hold my breath, however, please do let us know. If it does fix the issue, the TSB info would also help us to convince our dealers to help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So in addition the tech says he charged my 12 volt battery and says he cant recreate the problem i initially had with the dead 12 volt battery lol Thats like putting a bandaid on the problem. He didnt change any fuses or circuitry. He says he just did that Software update for the high voltage battery charger.
 

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So in addition the tech says he charged my 12 volt battery and says he cant recreate the problem i initially had with the dead 12 volt battery lol Thats like putting a bandaid on the problem. He didnt change any fuses or circuitry. He says he just did that Software update for the high voltage battery charger.
Ouch! That is not really a very satisfying result. You might find the following thread useful as a back up plan if the problem does not go away. Describes the whole business of getting and using a 12 V battery charger in the E Tron.


Also, what about the keyhole problem for the door handles. Did they fix that? Or, did they just recommend you never lock the car?
 

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So in addition the tech says he charged my 12 volt battery and says he cant recreate the problem i initially had with the dead 12 volt battery lol Thats like putting a bandaid on the problem. He didnt change any fuses or circuitry. He says he just did that Software update for the high voltage battery charger.
If their "fix" is insuffucient, PM me with your email address, and I will send you a copy of my paperwork, with all the gory details of what happened with my car, which, since its return, has been perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ouch! That is not really a very satisfying result. You might find the following thread useful as a back up plan if the problem does not go away. Describes the whole business of getting and using a 12 V battery charger in the E Tron.


Also, what about the keyhole problem for the door handles. Did they fix that? Or, did they just recommend you never lock the car?
Yup they ordered a keyhole replacement. Apparently it was faulty and missing some springs/pins
 
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